Almost everything in crochet is built from five stitches. Learn these and you can read most beginner patterns; every fancy stitch you will ever meet — shells, bobbles, clusters, puffs — is just these five combined differently.

They are listed here shortest to tallest, which is also the easiest order to learn them in. All names are US terms.

Before starting, get a medium worsted yarn in a light solid color and a 5 mm (H/8) hook. Dark yarn and variegated yarn both hide the stitch structure, which is exactly what you need to see while learning.

The two moves everything is made of

Every stitch below is a combination of two actions. Learn the names now and the instructions stop being cryptic.

Yarn over (yo) — wrap the working yarn over your hook from back to front. You will do this thousands of times.

Pull through — draw the hook, with yarn caught in it, back out through a loop or a stitch.

That is genuinely all of it. The five stitches differ only in how many times you yarn over first and how many loops you close at a time.

The foundation chain

You need something to work into, so every flat piece starts with a chain.

Make a slip knot and put it on the hook.
Yarn over.
Pull that yarn through the loop already on the hook. That is one chain.
Repeat until you have the number the pattern asks for.

Do not count the slip knot, and do not count the loop currently on your hook. Only the finished V-shaped links count.

Chain about 20 to practice on. Aim for loose, even links — beginners chain too tightly, which makes the first row miserable to work into.

Where exactly to put the hook. Look at your chain: the front shows a row of Vs, and the back has a single raised ridge — the “bump.” You can work under one strand of the V, under both, or into the back bump. All three are correct. The back bump takes a moment longer and gives the neatest bottom edge, which is worth it on anything where the edge shows. Whichever you choose, do the same thing all the way across.

1. Slip stitch (`sl st`)

The shortest stitch there is. It adds almost no height, so it is rarely used to build fabric. Its jobs are joining rounds, moving your hook sideways without adding height, and creating firm seams.

Insert the hook into the stitch.
Yarn over.
Pull the yarn through both the stitch and the loop on your hook, in one movement.

Done. One loop remains on the hook.

2. Single crochet (`sc`)

Short, dense, and sturdy. This is the workhorse for amigurumi, bags, dishcloths, and anything that needs to hold its shape without gaps.

Insert the hook into the next stitch.
Yarn over and pull up a loop. Two loops on the hook.
Yarn over and pull through both loops.

One single crochet made. When working into a foundation chain, start in the second chain from the hook — that skipped chain is the height of the stitch.

3. Half double crochet (`hdc`)

Between a single and a double in height. Slightly softer and drapier than single crochet while still fairly dense. Underrated for hats and blankets.

Yarn over, then insert the hook into the next stitch.
Yarn over and pull up a loop. Three loops on the hook.
Yarn over and pull through all three loops at once.

Note the difference from single crochet: you yarn over before going into the stitch. That extra wrap is what makes it taller. Into a chain, start in the third chain from the hook.

4. Double crochet (`dc`)

The most-used stitch in crochet. Tall, quick to work, slightly open. Blankets, scarves, and garments are mostly this.

Yarn over, then insert the hook into the next stitch.
Yarn over and pull up a loop. Three loops on the hook.
Yarn over and pull through the first two loops only. Two loops remain.
Yarn over and pull through the last two loops.

The key difference from half double crochet is step 3: you close the loops in two stages instead of all at once. Into a chain, start in the fourth chain from the hook.

5. Treble crochet (`tr`)

Also written triple crochet. Tall and noticeably lacy. Used in shawls, open stitch patterns, and anywhere you want fabric fast.

Yarn over twice, then insert the hook into the next stitch.
Yarn over and pull up a loop. Four loops on the hook.
Yarn over, pull through the first two loops. Three left.
Yarn over, pull through the next two loops. Two left.
Yarn over, pull through the last two loops.

You are closing the loops two at a time until one remains. Into a chain, start in the fifth chain from the hook.

Everything taller works the same way: wrap three times for a double treble, four for a triple treble, then close two loops at a time until one is left.

The pattern behind the pattern

Lay the five out and the logic is obvious:

Stitch	Wraps before inserting	Chain to start in	Turning chain
`sl st`	0	—	—
`sc`	0	2nd	1
`hdc`	1	3rd	2
`dc`	1	4th	3
`tr`	2	5th	4

Once you see that the whole family is “wrap more, close two at a time,” you never have to memorize a stitch again — you can reconstruct any of them.

What to make first

Work a practice swatch of each stitch, about 15 stitches wide and 10 rows tall. Not a project, just a rectangle. You will learn more from four ugly swatches than from starting a scarf you abandon.

Then make a dishcloth in single crochet or a simple scarf in double crochet. Flat, one color, one stitch. You want to practice tension and counting without also fighting shaping and color changes.

The mistakes everyone makes

Chaining too tightly. The most common beginner problem. Your foundation chain should be noticeably looser than your stitches. If working row one is a fight, chain again with a hook one size larger, then switch back for the rest.

Losing or gaining stitches at the row ends. Nearly always the turning chain. Full explanation here.

Working into the wrong part of the stitch. Unless a pattern says otherwise, insert the hook under both top loops of the stitch below. Front loop or back loop only are deliberate variations that patterns will ask for by name.

Death-gripping the yarn. Tight, uneven stitches usually mean too much tension in the hand holding the yarn. Let it run more freely. This fixes itself with practice more than with technique.

Frequently asked

Which stitch should I learn first? Chain, then single crochet. Slip stitch is easier but you cannot make anything with it, and beginners need something to show for the effort.

Why does my rectangle have holes? Double crochet and taller are naturally open — that is the stitch, not a mistake. If you want solid fabric, use single crochet or half double crochet, or drop a hook size.

How long until this feels natural? Most people are comfortable with the basic five within a few weeks of casual practice. The muscle memory arrives faster than the confidence does.

Do I need to learn UK terms too? Only if you use British or Australian patterns. The abbreviations chart has the full conversion, and it matters, because the same abbreviation means a different stitch in each system.